What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Posted on by Ersin Koseoglu

Hyaluronic Acid is also known by the names Hyaluronan or Sodium Hyaluronate. If we examine the biochemical structure of the molecule, even if the word ACID is mentioned in its name, it is not ACID, it is a type of molecule consisting of sugar molecules and also called glycosaminoglycan.

Hyaluronic Acid is the natural building block of the skin and is located in the connective tissue of our entire body (1).

Externally applied Hyaluronic Acid penetrates up to the dermis layer depending on its molecular weight. According to the findings obtained in clinical studies, it is non-toxic. Does not cause skin sensitivity or irritation. It is not carcinogenic or genotoxic (2, 3).

Hyaluronic Acid is considered a miracle ingredient for the skin. Its biggest and most important feature is its water holding capacity. It has a water holding capacity of 1000 times its molecular weight, 1 g of Hyaluronic Acid has a water holding capacity of 6 L!!!!

As the most important factor in making the skin look young and vibrant is the moisture and water ratio in the skin, this feature of Hyaluronic Acid is very important in skin aging. As we get older, our skin also ages, its old elastic, flexible and plump structure begins to disappear, sagging and wrinkles begin to be observed. The biggest reason for these is the loss of moisture in the skin, as we age, the capacity of the skin to trap moisture decreases. The skin, which loses moisture and water, also loses its former firmness, elasticity, flexibility and tension. Exposure of the skin to external factors during the day (sun rays, wind, free radical damage) and hormonal changes that occur with the aging process are also factors that cause the skin to lose water (4, 5, 6).

Hyaluronic Acid (7), which has a unique water holding capacity, is the key molecule that plays a role in the skin's ability to repair itself and increase its water holding capacity in such cases.

Hyaluronic Acid is a molecule that helps to increase the moisture content of the skin and also strengthens the skin barrier. When you have a healthy skin barrier, the skin is softer, plump, tight and taut, and looks younger and healthier at the same time. The benefits of Hyaluronic Acid for skin should not be limited to just younger and healthier looking skin. Besides, it has many other benefits.

We know that skin problems such as

sun damage, acne, skin sensitivity, Rosacea are the results of skin barrier damage. Repairing the damage to the skin barrier is the first step towards solving these concerns. The repair of the skin barrier is done with the ingredients in the skin structure, such as Hyaluronic Acid, which are the building blocks of the skin. Therefore, Hyaluronic Acid is a useful ingredient for all skin types.

It has a very light texture, not like oil! It is a transparent gel. Therefore, people with oily skin need not worry at all. Since it is one of the most gentle ingredients, it makes it one of the ingredients that people with sensitive skin should prefer. Consisting of pure Hyaluronic Acid Serums can be easily applied around and under the eyes.

It is one of the safest ingredients to use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

In addition to high water retention, the other most prominent feature of Hyaluronic Acid is to act as an antioxidant against free radical attacks and damage and to reduce inflammation in the skin (8).

Because of these features, it is a content used in the Seborrheic Dermatitis treatments. Seborrheic Dermatitis There is clinical evidence that the results obtained from treatments using low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid are very successful. studies are available (9)

In another study, it was determined that by using low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid, significant increases were observed in the moisture retention rate in the skin and serious reductions in the loss of elasticity were observed. Significant improvements were observed in the reduction of wrinkles after 60 days of use (10, 11, 12).

This is why Hyaluronic Acid is called a multifunctional anti-aging molecule.

While examining the ingredient lists of the products, we can see that some are listed as Hyaluronic Acid and some are listed as Sodium Hyaluronate. When examined chemically, Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of Hyaluronic Acid (13).

The real power of Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) is hidden in its molecular size. Its strongest form is obtained when it has the smallest molecular weight. The smaller the molecular size (2-10 KDalton), the easier it is to penetrate into the deeper skin layers when applied topically. As the molecular weight of Sodium Hyaluronate decreases, its value in skin care increases. In order to truly see its benefits on the skin, products containing Hyaluronic Acid with a small molecular weight should be used. As the Cyrene brand, we pay special attention to this and we use Sodium Hyaluronate with the smallest molecular weight when creating all our formulas. The point to be careful about is the molecular weight of Sodium Hyaluronate in all products containing Sodium Hyaluronate. Some brands use large molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate just to use its name on ingredient lists. Unfortunately, large molecules remain on the skin surface and do not penetrate the skin. They only have moisturizing properties on the skin surface, they act as ingredients such as glycerin, propylene glycol. For this reason, molecular size must be investigated before purchasing products containing Hyaluronic Acid (14).

Adding Hyaluronic Acid to Skin Care Routine

 Many of the products containing Hyaluronic Acid are in the form of moisturizer (cream) or Serum. The most important point to be considered here is the rate of Hyaluronic Acid in the product. The ratio of Hyaluronic Acid in the product is understood by looking at its order in the ingredient list. If Hyaluronic Acid is at the top of the ingredient list, the usage rate in the product is high. If it is at the very end of the ingredient list, that product contains very low Hyaluronic acid and is useless! At the same time, we should not forget the molecular size of Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid with the smallest molecular weight is the most beneficial for our skin!

While arranging the skin care routine, in addition to adding products containing Hyaluronic Acid to the routine, the content of other products to be used should also be good. Ingredients that damage and irritate the skin barrier should be avoided. NAZIK cleaning products should be preferred especially for skin cleaning. Cleaners that damage the skin barrier such as SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate), SLS, ALS, Sulfates, Soaps should be avoided. In addition, products containing ingredients such as Ethyl alcohol, Essence (Parfum), Allergens, Essential Oils should also be avoided. A well-formulated, broad-spectrum sunscreen with both UVA and UVB protection should be used during the day.

Hyaluronic Acid is a molecule that provides moisture to the skin by providing moisture to be kept in the skin, and at the same time, it goes down to the dermis layer and helps to repair the skin and open up stubborn wrinkles and lines. If they are equipped with content, the business can fall into a vicious circle. On the one hand, the skin is tried to be repaired, on the other hand, it continues to be damaged. For this reason, the skin care routine should be considered as a "whole" and should be created by choosing good products.

Cyrene Multivitamin Extra Firming Eye Treatment It is a very powerful eye contour care formulated with retinol, vitamin C and vitamin E. It helps speed up the skin's self-renewal process. It helps to repair dark circles around the eyes. Thanks to the hyaluronic acid in its formula and the actives that nourish the skin, it provides a moist and more vibrant skin.

Epidermal Matrix Age Defying Serum Hyaluron 3MW tIt is formulated with 1% of Hyaluronic acid (HA) having 3 different molecular weights. HA with the smallest molecular weight is also called dermal HA and can reach the dermis layer . HA with medium and large molecular weight stays in the epidermis layer and provides moisture support to this layer.

Cyrène Hydrating&Repairing Serum Hyaluronic acid, which is the body's natural moisture factor, prebiotics with the ability to repair the skin barrier and regulate the skin microbiome, and Vitamin that helps the skin to preserve moisture by trapping moisture on the skin surface. Formulated with B5.

CyrèneRetical Smart CompleX4 Serum Thanks to its special formula containing Retinol, Vitamin C, Niacinamide and Hyaluron, it goes down to the root of wrinkles and helps to reduce deep wrinkles and fine lines. It helps to reduce the appearance of the skin. It promises to have a tightened, elastic and youthful skin.

If you need help with your skin care routine WhatsApp Support you can get help from our experts.

References:

  1. Becker LC et al., Final report of the safety assessment of hyaluronic acid, potassium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate. Int J Toxicol. 2009 Jul-Aug;28(4 Suppl):5-67.
  2. Juhlin L., Hyaluronan in skin. J Intern Med. 1997 Jul;242(1):61-6.
  3. Stern R, Maibach HI. Hyaluronan in skin: aspects of aging and its pharmacologic modulation. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26:106–22.
  4. Meyer LJ, Stern R. Age-dependent changes of hyaluronan in human skin. JInvest Dermatol. 1994 Mar;102(3):385-9.
  5. Fisher GJ, Kang S, Varani J, Bata-Csorgo Z, Wan Y, Datta S, et al. Mechanisms of photoaging and chronological skin aging. Arch Dermatol. 2002;138:1462–70. doi: 10.1001/archderm.138.11.1462.
  6. Baumann L. Skin aging and its treatment. J Pathol. 2007;211:241–51. doi: 10.1002/path.2098.
  7. Eleni Papakonstantinou et al., Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging, Dermatoendocrinol. 2012 Jul 1; 4(3): 253–258.
  8. Soltés L, Mendichi R, Kogan G, Schiller J, Stankovska M, Arnhold J. Degradative action of reactive oxygen species on hyaluronan. Biomacromolecules. 2006;7:659–68.
  9. Schlesinger T. et al., Efficacy and safety of a low-molecular weight hyaluronic Acid topical gel in the treatment of facial seborrheic dermatitisJ Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2012 Oct;5(10):20-3.
  10. Pavicic T. t al., Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment, J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000.
  11. Wang Z. et al., Evaluation of emulsion electrospun polycaprolactone/hyaluronan/epidermal growth factor nanofibrous scaffolds for wound healing.J Biomater Appl. 2015 May 26.
  12. Laurent TC. Structure of hyaluronic acid. In: Balazs, EA, ed. Chemistry and Molecular Biology of the Intercellular Matrix, Academic Press: New York, 1970:p. 703.
  13. Neuman MG. et al., Hyaluronic acid and wound healing, J Pharm Pharm Sci. 2015;18(1):53-60.
  14. Essendoubi M. et al., Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy, Skin Res Technol. 2015 Apr
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